Health and Care
HOUSING:
Of all the housing options, cages provide the least amount of space for your bunny, so if possible, try a pen or custom enclosure setup first. However, if you do opt to house your bunny in a large cage, you must ensure the rabbit gets plenty of time of time outside the cage- at least a couple hours daily. The options for cages are varied but require a few basics for the well- being of your rabbit. Cages must be large enough to accommodate your bunny. The bigger the better! There needs to be room for your rabbit to move about and lie down, as well as space for food, water, litter box and toys. Never use glass aquariums as they are seldom large enough and do not have enough air circulation. It is also best to have a cage with a front door so your rabbit can come and go on his/her own. Some people prefer cages with wire bottoms because a litter pan can be placed underneath. This is generally fine, but you need to include a tile or a piece of wood or cardboard for the bunny to stand/lie on. Standing on the wire floor alone can cause damage and discomfort to your rabbit's paws. There are many different housing possibilities to consider for your rabbit. Rabbits need a place where they feel safe as well as room to exercise and explore. The best option will depend on your living arrangements. But remember, rabbits are very social creatures, so choose a location in your home that won't leave your bunny feeling lonely and abandoned.
HAY:
Fresh hay should make up the bulk of your rabbit's diet and needs to be readily available at all times. Adult rabbits can eat timothy, grass, and oat hays, while younger rabbits can be fed alfalfa. Alfalfa should not be given to adult rabbits because of the higher protein and sugar content. Hay is important for rabbits because it provides the essential fiber needed for good digestive health and it helps wear down a rabbit's teeth (which continuously grow) for good dental health. Placing hay at one end of a litter box will also encourage the use of the litter box, as rabbits tend to eat hay and poop at the same time. When choosing hay, make sure it looks and smells fresh. Do not choose a hay that looks brown or moldy or no longer smells like fresh cut grass. Store hay in a dry place in a container that allows air flow to keep it from getting moldy. Buying hay in bulk from a local farmer tends to be much more economical than buying bags from a pet store.
WATER:
I would suggest using a large heavy ceramic water crock instead of a water bottle as water bottles do not give them water fast enough and dehydration can occur and also they are more prone to bacteria because they are harder to clean. Water should always be available!
PELLETS:
Rabbits should have fresh and unlimited pellets until they reach 5 months old then 1 cup a day (large breeds) and 1/3 to 1/2 cup (small breeds) is normally plenty as long as you have hay available at all times.
TREATS:
Everybody loves a treat now and then, but to ensure your rabbits health they should be given only occasionally. Do not feed your rabbit items high in carbohydrates like breads, crackers, pasta, pretzels, cookies, chips, or cereal. Although branded for rabbits, many commercially-sold bunny treats are high in fat and sugar, such as yogurt chips, and should not be given. Never give chocolate as it is toxic to rabbits.
Fruit is the best option for a treat, but again you should give it only in small amounts because of the sugar content. Purchase organic fruits that we know are free of pesticides. Like vegetables, be sure that they are thoroughly washed.
DO NOT FEED ANTHING OTHER THAN HAY AND PELLETS TO ANY RABNIT UNDER 5 MONTHS OLD AS THIS CAN CAUSE SEVERE LIFE THREATENING DIARRHEA DUE TO DIGESTIVE TRACT BEING UNDERDEVELOPED TO HANDLE THESE FOODS. WHEN INTRODUCING ANY FRUIT OR VEGETABLE KEEP IT AT SMALL AMOUNTS AT FIRST. FRUIT PORTIONS SHOULD BE NO LARGER THAN THE TIP OF YOUR THUMB AND ONLY 1-2 TIMES A WEEK. VEGETABLES SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN A CUP A DAY.
VEGETABLES:
NOTE: At least three different vegetables a day are recommended - any combination of lettuces counts as ONE veggie for that day). Alfalfa, Radish And Clover Sprouts Asparagus, Basil Beet, Greens Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots And Tops, Chard, Chicory, Greens, Cilantro, Clover, Collard Greens, Dandelion Greens (Pesticide Free!) Eggplant, Endive Escarole Grass - Freshly Cut From Your Backyard, If You Are Sure There Are No Chemicals, Fertilizers, Poisons (Park Grass Usually Has One Or All Of These) Kale, Mint, Mustard Greens Mustard Spinach, Okra Leaves, Parsley, Pea Pods, (A.K.A. Chinese Pea Pods) Peppermint Leaves, Peppers (green, red, yellow...) Pumpkin Leaves, Radicchio, Radish Tops, Raspberry Leaves, Squash: Zucchini, Yellow, Butternut, Pumpkin Turnip Greens, Various Lettuces, Avoid Very Light Hearts: Romaine, Butter, Green Leaf, Boston, Bibb, Arugula..
No: Iceberg, Watercress, Wheat Grass,Very Light Hearts: Romaine, Butter, Green Leaf, Boston, Bibb, Arugula..NOTE: Feed only once or twice a week in small amounts - NO seeds or pits!Sugary fruits, such as bananas and grapes should be fed only as occasional treats, and NO fruit should be fed to rabbits who are overweight.
FRUIT:
Apple Blackberries, Blueberry, Pineapple, Melon, Papaya, Peach, Plum, Pears, Raspberries, Strawberries,
NO GRAINS, LEGUMES OR NUTS! These are not natural foods for rabbits and they can be very dangerous to gut function.
LITTER BOX TRAINING:
A common misconception is that rabbits are dirty animals. But rabbits make wonderful indoor companions in part because they can be litter box trained, just like cats! Follow these steps to litter train your rabbit.
Provide a small cat litter box (or a few) with low sides and no top. You can also use a shallow storage tub. Cut a doorway in one of the sides if it's too tall. Don't bother with the corner litter boxes advertised for bunnies, as they are too small, unless you have a smaller breed of rabbit.
In the litter pan you can use many products. Carefresh is excellent. Pelleted wood products such as FireMaster wood stove pellets, Woody Pet, Mountain Cat, Feline Pine and Horse Stall Bedding brands are very absorbent and control odour very well. Pelleted paper such as Yesterday’s News absorb well. Wood shavings (spruce or aspen) absorb but get soggy and do not control odour well. Corn cob is not very absorbent or odour controlling. Corn cob also has the drawback of being tasty to some rabbits. Watch your rabbit to make sure he does not eat any of the above litters you may choose to use. Hay can be sprinkled over the top of any litter to encourage use. Shredded newspaper and/or hay or straw can always be used.
Put a thin layer of litter at the bottom of the litter box- just enough to absorb wetness. There's no need to fill it too high since rabbits don't bury their droppings like cats. Plus, when you clean the litter box, you dump the entire contents out each time. So you will unnecessarily go through a lot of litter if you deeply fill the box each time. Rabbits like to eat hay and poop at the same time. So to promote good litter box habits, place hay either directly in the box over the litter or place it in a hay box next to the litter box. If you use a hay box, position it so the rabbit must hop into the litter box in order to reach the hay. It's easiest to develop good litter box habits in rabbits by limiting their space at first. Use a puppy pen to confine your rabbit to one area, even if you intend to give him/her free reign of your home eventually. This allows your bunny to get acclimated to the area in the beginning. Once your bunny consistently uses the litter box, you can gradually expand the area. If your rabbit starts "forgetting" to use the litter box, then limit the space again until good habits resume.
Here are a few other tips for those stubborn, "outside-the-box" bunnies:
If accidents occur, mop up urine with a paper towel and pick up stray poop and place both in the litter box. This helps get the message across that the litter box is the place that they should do their business. Keep in mind that rabbits are generally not 100% perfect with their litter box. Sometimes they leave a few droppings next to the box, or they urinate over the edge of their box. This is normal, so placing a plastic mat under their litter box or putting the litter box on a tile floor makes it easier to clean up these little mistakes.
Be patient and persistent. Litter training takes time, especially if your rabbit has learned bad habits. It takes a while to retrain them. If you can see they’re about to go outside their litter box (they may lift their tail or sometimes they sort of shimmy down in a seated position right before they go), try to pick them up and put them in the litter box or corral them in. This is oftentimes easier said than done of course. If your bunny is insistent on going in one corner of the room, sometimes it’s easier to give in to their stubbornness, and place a litterbox in that corner. Sometimes when rabbits consistently choose another place to go, they are trying to tell you that that’s where they want to go. If your rabbit is pooping/spraying pee everywhere, this is probably due to your rabbit marking his territory. It’s a good idea to get your rabbit spayed/neutered in order to ease territorial feelings. Litter training your bunny takes patience and persistence. But in the end, you'll have a wonderful companion to share your home with.
HANDLING YOUR RABBIT:
The first and most important rule of picking up a rabbit is to never pick him/her up by the ears, the scruff, legs or tail. It is painful and can cause serious damage. You wouldn't want to be lifted by your ears, would you?The second rule to remember is that rabbits are fragile. They are quick indeed, but have weak skeletal systems.Thirdly, rabbits do not always enjoy being picked up. Some of them will tolerate it, but many will struggle when you try to lift them. Therefore, picking them up can be a delicate business.
Sometimes it is necessary to pick up your rabbit, however, such as for nail clipping or vet checks. So here are some useful tips. Approach your rabbit slowly and get down to his/her level. It will help put your bun at ease. Petting the rabbit will also have a calming effect. When you feel confident your rabbit is ready to be picked up, scoop him/her up by placing a hand under the torso and pull your bunny close to your body. Support the rabbit's hindquarters. Your bunny needs to feel secure in your arms. If your rabbit struggles when being picked up, hold him/her firmly, but be ready to put him/her down. Your rabbit may think the better alternative to being held is to leap from your arms, but this can cause serious injury. When putting your rabbit down, slowly squat down while holding your bunny close, and let him/her down gently. Your rabbit may respond with a thump or may kick up his/her hind legs at you while scampering away. It's nothing personal, he/she just disapproves of being picked up.
RABBIT PROOFING YOUR HOME
In order to protect your house rabbit as well as your home you need to bunny proof. Rabbits love to dig and chew but need to do so in a nondestructive manner.Providing many toys can help dissuade your rabbit from chewing on your belongings; when your bunny is occupied he/she will be less inclined to be destructive. Supervision is also key. Not only will your bunny love the attention, you can make sure your house doesn't fall apart.Wires are one of the main targets of bunnies. Their sharp teeth can slice through your wires quickly, damaging your favorite lamp or worse, electrocuting your rabbit. It is best to cover wires with hard plastic sleeves or flex tubing. These can be purchased at any hardware, home improvement or electronics store. Even better is to keep all wires out of the reach of your bunnies. When you look around the area your bunny will be residing in, do you see any places you don't want your bunny? Some bunnies can jump 36 inches or higher, and their curiosity brings them on top of shelves, chairs and desks.
They are also quite adept at squeezing into tight spaces, like behind your bookshelf or under your bed. You'll need to block off these areas. There are many options for this. Baby gates or puppy-pens work well, but ideally they should be made of metal, otherwise your bunny will chew his/her way through quite quickly. Watch out that the slats aren't too far apart, however, or else your rabbit will slip right through. Bunnies are natural diggers and will dig anywhere they can, especially on your carpets. Any loose edges will be pulled and dug on until your carpet becomes a stringy mess. Tiles or untreated sea grass mats are good ways to cover areas that your bunny likes to chew. You can also arrange your furniture to cover spots your bunny frequently digs.
Molding is frequently chewed by bunnies. You can purchase plastic guards, but the best option is to give your bunny plenty of other chew options, such as natural wicker baskets and various other chew toys. Houseplants can be dangerous to bunnies. Many plants are toxic to your bunny. It is best to keep any plants out of the reach of your bunny. Poinsettia, holly, tomato leaves, and tulips are among the plants toxic to your bunnies.By bunny proofing your house, you'll provide a safe environment for your rabbit and protect your belongings. This will make both you and your bunny very happy.
TAKING YOUR BUNNY OUTDOORS
It is very tempting to take your house rabbit outside in the sunny weather, but be careful in doing so. Being domesticated means that rabbits do not have all of the skills to survive outside. While taking your rabbit outside for short, structured and supervised visits, use the following tips: Know the area that you are taking your rabbit. Many areas use pesticides on grass and weed killer in gardens, both of which can harm or kill your bunny. Predators are also a concern outside. Dogs, birds, raccoons and other creatures can harm your rabbit. Although they may not attack your rabbit, he/she may die from the stress of being frightened by a potential predator. Heat is a big concern when taking your rabbit for some outside fun. Some plants may be poisonous to your rabbit Bugs! Mosquitoes and flies may bite your rabbit and can potentially transmit diseases. Check your bun for ticks and other bugs after being outside.
We highly suggest that if you plan on taking your bun outside that you construct a rabbit run. Ideally, the run should have four walls with a top and bottom. A bottom will keep your rabbit from digging his/her way out and keep predators from getting in. A top will provide shade and keep owls, hawks and other airborn predators out. The sides should be made of thick welded wire that is not wide enough for your bun to get out or predators to get in. Another option is to purchase a puppy exercise pen and set it up outside. You will need to take extra care to supervise your bunny in an exercise pen to ensure your rabbit does not dig a hole below the panels or jump over the panels. You will also have to be on the lookout for potential predators that may harm or frighten your bunny. You can also purchase a harness or walking jacket and a leash to "walk" your bunny. Basically, "walking" a rabbit means you follow your bun where ever he/she hops.
Your rabbit may not like wearing the harness, however, and may try very hard to remove it. Make sure the walking jacket fits snugly on your bun, so he/she can- not squirm out of it. Also note, your bunny may be frightened by the fact that you are constantly walking or running behind it. It may take some time for your bun to get accustomed to the idea. The outdoors can provide a wonderful, exciting experience for your bun, as long as you take the proper precautions to keep your pet safe
Grooming:
Due to the rabbit's biological incapability to vomit, removing excess fur prevents intestinal blocking fatal choking on fur balls as rabbits tend to groom themselves. Long hair breeds should be brushed once a week or as needed with a molt with either a cat comb or a specifically designed rabbit comb. Rabbits are clean animals so you should never bathe them as this can cause extreme amounts of stress to rabbits causing them to literally drop dead of a heart attack. When done brushing, a pet owner can additionally wet their hands and wipe the rabbit down to remove any loose fur. It is also necessary to clip nails about once a month, which can be done with conventional nail clippers. The rabbit's nails are distinguished apart from the quick, the red base of the nail that will bleed if the nail is cut too close. You can use a baby wipe to gently wipe dirty feet. Also, giving papaya as a treat here and there helps control hairballs. If you see your rabbit having stools that are stuck together by strings of fur, they need papaya.
CLEANING:
Never use harsh chemical cleaners around your bunny. White vinegar works great. Make sure you rinse anything you wash very well before returning it to your rabbit to use because rabbits have very sensitive noses.
TOYS:
Rabbits do not need expensive toys. A plain brown cardboard box with holes cut in it, a 6-8 inch PCV pipe to make tunnels to run through, cheap wicker baskets and grass mats (100 % natural) are great for digging or chewing. Balls to push around, plastic baby toys (keys, chew rings), even toilet paper rolls can make a safe, fun toy for your rabbit.
TRAINING:
Never hit or slap your rabbit. A loud "No", clapping hands or stamping a foot will generally do to discourage unwanted behavior. Always remember that your rabbit is a rabbit and will exhibit rabbit behaviors such as chewing and digging. Provide places for these behaviors. Boxes of newspaper or hay/straw or grass mats are good for digging. Cardboard and some branches are good to chew. Some good branches for your bunny are, apple, willow, birch, alder. See the list of poisonous plants and avoid those. Make sure any tree branches are natural and unsprayed. Never give your bunny anything unidentified
PARASITE CONTROL:
De-worming: Panacur Rabbit is a paste that is administered orally and should be repeated 2-4 times a year. It aids in the control of Encephalitozoon cuniculi and protects against intestinal worms. Give a pea size amount of paste only. No more.Xeno 450 Spot-on is directly put on the back of the neck and protects the rabbit from both internal and external parasites. This product should be administered monthly to the animal to ensure full protection. Verm-X Nuggets are suitable for use in rabbits, guinea pigs and hamsters. They are a great source of fibre and make a tasty treat for your bunny. They should be used daily.
Loose stools/diarrhea: Pull all pellets and feed ONLY hay. Put probiotic powder into water (Sav-a-chick brand) or Benebac powder (put on top of food or get gel and syringe feed). If it does not clear you may need to take your rabbit to the vet to have a stool sample sent in to see if your rabbit has coccidia and get proper meds from a vet to treat.
SPAY/NEUTER:
Fixing your rabbits will help them become a better family pet as this will help curb unwanted behaviors such as marking territory and being territorial . It takes those pesky hormones out of the equation that are the culprits to these un-wanted behaviors. It also makes litter box training a million times better since rabbits mark their territory with both urine and pellet droppings.
Veterinarians I recommend are:
1.24th Street Animal Clinic. 402-345-2211. Rabbit needs to be at least 6 months old.
Neuter is $100. Spay is $130 https://www.24thstreetanimalclinic.com/
2. Good Samaritan Pet Doctor. 402-505-6911. Rabbit needs to be at least 6 months old.
Neuter is $175 Spay is $230 https://goodsampetdoc.com/
As always, if you guys have any questions I am always happy to answer 😄Also, if you ever have time, please feel free to leave a review of your experience on my rabbitry page at https://www.facebook.com/frolicklopmeadows/ . Reviews have to be completed from a desktop computer (facebook for some reason won’t let you do it from a phone, or so I have been told). Feel free to post pictures of your buns on the page anytime to let me know how they are doing, I enjoy getting to see them!!!!